FAQ

Q: Does dominating roosters fix aggressive behavior?

A: This subject has come up so many times, so we wanted to take a moment to go into detail and explain why we do not back this method. Before starting, we just want to assure you that we understand that people come from different backgrounds, and have been given differing advice over the years, and we are not here to judge anyone. We are thrilled to have every single one of you with us! So this is just a reminder that we are all here because we want to do right by our boys.

So without further ado, these are the primary reasons dominating is not recommended.

1) It can backfire in a big way! This advice is sometimes supported by keepers who have found that it lessened attacks. This might be true in certain cases, but it is entirely dependent on the individual bird. A more dominant roo can see it as an excuse to double down and become more aggressive and threatened. This is a very common recommendation in many groups, and a great many keepers try it but still wind up throwing in the towel, often reporting to others later that "nothing worked". Put simply, if it were that effective, many of our members would not have felt a need to seek out this group and far fewer keepers would be struggling.

2) It establishes a competitive relationship. There is a very pervasive myth out there that either you are dominant over your roo, or he is dominant over you, no middle ground. While it makes sense that many would assume this to be true, it is absolutely not the case. Recent studies suggest chickens are likely as smart as a 7 year old human, which is to say they are very capable of understanding that we exist outside of the pecking order. They don't automatically view us as another rooster (or hen), but this method is designed to convince them we are one. Of course, it is natural for a rooster to want to compete with and challenge another rooster, so the last thing we want to do is deliberately put ourselves in that category. Many roosters first attack out of fear or anxiety and are misunderstood to be challenging (it looks very similar). Dominating when this happens can easily convince them that they need to compete with us, even if they had no desire to previously.

3) Even if it does work, it will be temporary. If we are thinking of adopting the role of rival, we need to look closely at the dymanic between competing roos. After all, this is the outcome we should expect if we do manage to convince them and win that contest. As a guardian of a bachelor flock, I see a disproportionate amount of rooster social dymanics on a daily basis. Head roo position is quickly determined when the pecking order changes up, but that order does not last forever, or even close to it. The loser will certainly give the winner his space for a time, but as soon as he bolsters some courage he will give it another shot. There simply is no permanent win between roosters, and the throne is regularly contested. Wanting to lead is just too ingrained in them. Rather than solving the problem, this method presses the snooze button and the issue will come up again as soon as his courage builds back up. You might win the battle, but the war is still being fought.

4) It burns the bridge to friendship. Rival roosters are not buddies. In a large enough mixed flock, it is natural for each rooster to claim their hens and establish a harem away from the other. The weaker roo will feel pressured to stay away from the stronger one, and will become apprehensive about asserting himself in general. Subordinate roos often won't even crow, as they understand that the head roo is likely to view that as an overstepping of position. What we want is secure boys who understand that we are friends and are empowered to act in their role. They will not bond with us and see us as a trusted companion unless we leave competition off the table.

5) We aren't qualified! Seriously though, a big issue with trying to be "head roo" that I don't often see discussed is that we are sending the message to him (and the flock) that we are the protector, provider and caregiver. It is true that we fill in on all these roles, but it is inappropriate to attempt to take over that social position when we can't always be present like he can. If we succeed, the flock is left with a "head roo" who only shows up part time and doesn't have nearly the understanding of their needs that a rooster has naturally. He is the expert, he was literally born to do the job. He has specialized vision to quickly spot any danger lurking, he speaks the flock's language, he watches over them at all times, even overnight. We simply can't compete.

6) It runs the risk of masking other issues. Often any unpleasant rooster behavior is lumped into the same category, him "not knowing his place." Dominating is thought to put them in line, but the issue often has nothing to do with being out of line in the first place. It is so important to get to the root of the problem and address the true cause of that undesirable behavior. That really is the only lasting solution. A rooster who is frightened will not be reassured by being pinned. One who is sick or in pain will not be soothed. One who feels that his girls are being taken from him will not be comforted by confirmation that they are and, worse yet, he has lost the fight. This group was created specifically to help anyone in it get to the bottom of what is driving the problems they are encountering, so that the needs and concerns of both keeper and rooster can be met. We don't want to simply reduce inconvenience while leaving the root cause unaddressed. Not only would that fail to help our boys when they need it most, it would leave the keeper open to future issues as well.

Thank you to anyone who took the time to read through this. I hope it was able to provide justification for avoiding this approach. Remember, we are here for you. If you are ever feeling like you need one on one support with anything you are dealing with, we are always here.

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2 answers0 replies

2 Comments

David Laroche

Mar 05, 2024

Though the coldest weather has passed, how do you protect roosters from frost bite? Mine has very big waddles, etc. that can be problematic in the cold. Live in Rhode Island and it does get cold here in Fall and Winter. Thank you.

jointheroovolution

Sep 10, 2024

Replying to

Hi David, I'm so very sorry for the delayed reply. It seems there was an issue with our notification settings and we're just finding this.

When it comes to frostbite prevention, the big thing to worry about is actually humidity levels. You want plenty of ventilation so that warm moisture-laden air (such as that exhaled by the flock) can rise and escape the coop. If allowed to accumulate in freezing temperatures, it can cause condensation to form on exposed skin like combs and wattles, which will then freeze and greatly increase the risk of frostbite developing. A good test to see whether your coop is venting sufficiently is to go out right at dawn and look at walls and windows inside the coop. If you see any condensation or frost on the interior, more ventilation is needed. Cold and dry is far far less of a concern than cold and damp.

Another important safety measure in winter is draft prevention. While you do want good ventilation and air exchange, you always want it to be intentionally placed and to prevent air from moving forcefully across the birds' bodies. Ventilation would be passive air exchange, usually occurring near the ceiling of the coop. Drafts, on the other hand, would be unintentional leaks which cause breezes to pass through and ruffle feathers while the birds are on their roost. If their feathers are disturbed overnight, the body heat they've built up and trapped against their skin will escape and this can prevent them from effectively insulating from the cold. It's helpful as well to utilize flat roosts instead of round ones in cold seasons, as this allows the birds to nestle their feet under their belly feathers to insulate sensitive toes.

You might hear it suggested to apply an ointment like Vaseline or Bag Balm during cold weather, but we'd strongly urge against doing this as it can lead to even worse frostbite developing. Though no studies have been done in chickens to document this risk, the issue has been studied in skiers and it was found that application of occlusives like Vaseline not only provided no protective benefit, but in many cases worsened the tissue damage. Frostbite requires lower temperatures to develop in dry conditions, and will occur more readily when excess moisture is present in the air or on skin. If you need a barrier to prevent moisture from collecting on wattles (say throughout the day when drinking) we would recommend something truly moisture blocking like Musher's Wax. Do note that this will not provide any protection from the cold itself, as any topical product will cool to match the air temperature. Rather, it will ensure that tissue remains dry, lowering the temperature at which frostbite would be expected to occur.

If temperatures will be so low that the above measures aren't sufficient, you might consider setting up a warming panel in the coop. These are far safer than heat lamps and won't warm the coop excessively. Heating things too far beyond the outside temperature can create a danger of temperature shock/stress going between the two areas. You do want them to remain adjusted to the real climate as much as possible. If kept too warm, a simple power outage could thrust them into sudden freezing temperatures they are no longer used to and this can be fatal. Of course, you still want that heat to be able to escape the coop so good ventilation continues to be crucial. The warming effect provided should be close proximity only and not effect the entire interior of the coop. If you have any additional questions, just let me know.